I learned about this outdoor fish fry while reporting on the HOPE ministry at St. Elizabeth Seton Parish in February. Met David Blaha, who, while telling me about his unemployment, talked about his cooking and his fish fry recipe he, um, discovered, while fishing one weekend long ago.
While driving past signs advertising Lenten specials, I thought about how Lent’s another time of year when you eat certain foods that don’t come out at any other time. Like Christmas cookies in December. Or fried tomatoes in August. And the Southland is so mush more culturally Catholic compared to the Philadelphia neighborhood where I grew up, I felt like Lent was everywhere. Would people talk about sacrifice?
The long road from paczki to ham is paved with fried fish.
The 40-day observance Catholics and Orthodox Christians mark to prepare for Easter is supposed to be a time of sacrifice.
Fridays during Lent have long been associated with going without meat, recalling the sacrifice of Jesus, who died on a cross on Good Friday, Christians believe, for their sins.
So for a few weeks a year in the Catholic Southland, pepper and egg sandwiches and battered fish reign supreme, popping up on restaurant menus and signs all over the place.
Except, how is any of that a sacrifice?
Well, it mostly isn’t, Lenten diners agree.
Take the recent fish fry at Our Lady of the Ridge church in Chicago Ridge, where Knights of Columbus lovingly rolled strips of beer-soaked cod into a spicy mix before tossing them into turkey fryers.
Up they bubble, golden and glorious, crispy and perfectly tender, these simple little cods. Nearby, awaits a table of lemon wedges, crusty bread, a little green salad. For the kids, there’s also macaroni and cheese, made from shredded cheddar and orange cheese sauce stirred into vats of warm elbow macaroni.
“There are a lot of substitutes for meat and I don’t feel like we give up all that much for Lent,” parishioner Lorraine Rakowski, of Chicago Ridge, said, tucking into her platter with her friend, Mary Casey, of Worth.
These ladies would know. Both single, they dine out a ton, making a tour of local restaurants and fish frys at several south suburban churches.
For 40 days, many menus specially feature goodies the ladies enjoy:
Smoked salmon, tuna salad, grilled cheese.
“And some restaurants have like half a cantaloupe with tuna fish,” Rakowski continued. “Shrimp. I love shrimp and lobster. I could eat lobster beautifully.
“Really, Lent doesn’t really hit me that much as far as giving up something.”
‘We join in the sacrifice’
There’s nothing unholy about meat, said the Rev. Kenneth Fleck, of St. George’s Parish. It just was a staple food that everyone ate, so abstaining from eating it took some thought, he said.
Before the Vatican II conference in the 1960s that modernized the Catholic Church, meat was forbidden every Friday of the year.
“There was abstinence from meat on Friday out of respect for the fact that Good Friday was the day Christ died,” said Fleck, who’s partial to peanut butter and jelly, or peanut butter with bananas, for a Friday Lenten lunch.
“We join in the sacrifice,” he said.
I like to eat egg salad, though I forgot to make it this year. It’s the only time of year I think to make it. My Mister and I went out for sushi a couple of times on Lenten Fridays until I felt like we were cheating the spirit of the law. Mister makes tons of tuna sandwiches. My own mother bakes a macaroni and cheese from scratch — the top gets super crunchy in the oven — that’s to die for. It’s also simple and cheap.
Read the whole story as published in the SouthtownStar, April 2, 2010
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